man surfing large wave in ocean

Surfing Hurricane Florence

Hurricane Florence and its Affect on Surfing

Ever heard the saying, “One man’s trash is another man’s treasure?” Or does it go, “One man’s misfortune can be another man’s standing barrel?” Our summer started out with the waves as flat as paper. The ocean was more like a big lake!

Then Hurricane Florence happened and our lake turned into a surfer’s dream.

Why do hurricanes give us waves? Well, when a hurricane’s eye is created, water starts to rise up and gets pushed around by the wind creating tides and currents. Then storm surges are created, giving us waves as the hurricane moves.

Hurricane Florence was a Category 2 when it hit the Carolinas but traveling through the ocean it was a Category 4. Florence gave us massive waves, between five and 12 feet! Bombing fast rides all the way inside. One way to describe it was…insane!

man surfing large wave in ocean

Surfing in New Smyrna Beach

We had solid surf in New Smyrna Beach for about a week. There were waves I tried to catch that were a few feet over my head! Grown men were even catching standing barrels.

When the swell from Florence first started to pick up, I surfed the beach with my good friend, Ella. It was around three to occasionally five-foot waves. We caught some waves and really had a blast. Two days later is when I realized that this swell was no joke.

I went out surfing with my dad at the inlet and there were just beautiful, fast, big faces coming towards you as you’re paddling out. The water was crystal clear, too, and it felt amazing!

It was very nice to see everyone out in the water having a fun time catching great waves. Paddling out into the water, you get so inspired and you get to see this guy do an air, and then this girl get barreled. There is just so much fantastic energy out in the water. Kelly Slater even decided to surf some of the swell in NSB!

I am very thankful I got to experience the waves of Hurricane Florence. It was so nice to finally be back in Mother Ocean, and having waves to challenge me made it so much better.

Although Florence blessed us with beautiful waves, it didn’t do so well for the southeast. Let’s all show our support towards the victims of Florence and remember…Shaka Shaka, Brahda!

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